FEATURE
Unearthing Mami Earth:
A Hidden Gullah Geechee Earth Spirit
Akua Page touches the soil that holds Gullah Geechee history at Boone Hall Plantation. Photo by Nathalie Marie Visuals.
I began my journey as a Naturalist and Certified Interpretive Guide (CIG) by giving tours at Riverfront Park. From a so-called Western perspective, this park, a popular destination for binyas (locals) and kumyas (visitors, transplants), is home to the Greater Charleston Naval Base Memorial. However, as I dived deeper into my studies as a Gullah Geechee Naturalist and CIG, I uncovered another story. Before Riverfront Park was transformed into a military base, it was a rice plantation known as Happy Retreat Plantation in 1784, with records dating back as early as 1672.
Before Happy Retreat Plantation was established, the land was part of the expansive wilderness of the Lowcountry. The area was characterized by dense forests, marshes, and rivers, overflowing with wildlife such as deer, rabbits, and various bird species. The land was originally inhabited by Native Americans, who utilized the natural resources for hunting, fishing, and agriculture. In 1901, the United States Government purchased the property from the City of Charleston to establish a naval yard. The strategic location along the Cooper River made it an ideal spot for military operations. The military base played a crucial role during World War I and World War II, serving as a key point for shipbuilding and repair.
After the military base closed in 1996, the City of North Charleston and the South Carolina State Ports Authority acquired the property. The vision was to create a large urban revitalization project called The Noisette Project, which aimed to transform the area into a vibrant community space. Riverfront Park was completed in 2007 as part of this project. Riverfront Park has become a beloved destination for both residents and visitors due to its scenic beauty and diverse recreational opportunities.
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Akua Page educates her tour group on the historical layout of Riverfront Park, highlighting its rice plantation past. Photo by Nathalie Marie Visuals.
As I guide people through the park, I use the natural world as my map to tell the story of Gullah Geechee people. The water, trees, brick buildings, and grass under our feet all hold stories deeply ingrained within Gullah Geechee culture. While it is difficult to uncover the specific names and stories of individuals enslaved at Riverfront Park, we know that life on a rice plantation involved a complex system of labor. Unlike the gang system used on many plantations, rice plantations often employed a task system. This meant that enslaved individuals were assigned specific tasks to complete each day. Once their tasks were finished, they had some autonomy over their time. However, this system still subjected them to the threat of violence if their work was deemed unsatisfactory. In the precious few moments of free time they had, many enslaved Gullah Geechee people would tend to their own gardens. These small plots provided not only supplemental food but also a sense of personal agency and cultural continuity. My enslaved ancestors brought seeds, such as rice, okra, watermelon, benne, etc, with them from their homeland, often braiding these seeds into their hair. The gardens served as a space to preserve ancestral memories through plants and connection to the land as they grew vegetables and herbs that were both familiar and essential to their survival. Gullah Geechee people are descendants of scientists from West and Central Africa, who were enslaved and trafficked to the Lowcountry regions of South Carolina, North Carolina, Florida, and Georgia. My ancestors’ unique culture, language, and traditions have significantly influenced the area’s history and landscape. The Gullah Geechee language developed on rice plantations as people from various regions of West and Central Africa blended their native languages with English. This Creole language emerged as a means of communication among the enslaved people, incorporating African linguistic elements and English vocabulary. The isolation of these plantations helped preserve the unique language, which remains a key part of Gullah Geechee cultural identity today. The park itself is located along the Cooper River, an area historically known as being a prime location for the cultivation of rice, a skill brought by my Gullah Geechee ancestors from the “Rice Coast” of Africa.
As I guide people through the park, telling them the story of how Gullah Geechee culture developed on rice plantations like the one we’re standing on, many ask, “Where are the statues about Gullah Geechee people?” As we pass by multiple statues and monuments of Euro-centric American culture, I point out that there are none. None that you can see, but our ancestors left something you can feel. The spirits of the land speak for the people who cultivated it, studied it, and nurtured it, those people would be Gullah Geechee. To honor this legacy, I have been advocating for an interpretive marker to be placed in front of the Dead House at Riverfront Park. This marker would acknowledge the significant contributions of Gullah Geechee agriculture and architecture to the area, ensuring that our stories and heritage are recognized and celebrated for future generations. The City of North Charleston tried to obscure these stories and our heritage by erecting a statue of Persephone, the Greek goddess of agriculture, at the park. But the true goddess of this land is Mami Earth, a hidden Gullah Geechee Earth spirit who lives in the live oak trees, soil, plants, water, and all that you see in nature. I named her Mami Earth, but her essence is recognized by many. In Gullah Geechee culture, we believe in the presence of ancestral spirits and other entities that influence our lives, acting as intermediaries between the Divine and the human world. Our spiritual system, often referred to as Hoodoo, blends African traditional religion and Christianity. Hoodoo is an African American healing and protection practice. Due to antiblackness and the demonization of Black religions, many people practice Hoodoo without naming it or even realizing its roots. For instance, painting porch ceilings with "haint blue" to ward off evil spirits is a common Hoodoo practice, as the color is believed to keep bad spirits away.
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Akua Page raises the Gullah Geechee Diaspora Flag, celebrating the spirit of her people at Riverfront Park. Photo by Nathalie Marie Visuals.
Similar to "Mami Wata," which means "Mother Water," Mami Earth translates to "Mother Earth." Many cultures recognize Mother Earth as a spirit. In Gullah Geechee traditions, we honor the Tree of Life as a spirit. Inspired by this, I created Mami Earth, typically depicted as a figure resembling a live oak tree, but her appearances can vary. Persephone is also known as the Greek goddess of grain, but the grain cultivated on this land is a rice crop from Africa, Oryza glaberrima, known today as Carolina Gold Rice. When that first African seed was planted on what is now American soil, it gave birth to Mami Earth. Many people are still unfamiliar with her by name, but her memory is present in Gullah Geechee stories. The South Carolina Swamp Maroons, who found refuge in the dense, impenetrable cypress-tupelo swamps to escape the brutal conditions of enslavement, were guided by a higher power. They believed this Divine spirit provided them with the knowledge to navigate the treacherous terrain, find food, and remain hidden from their oppressors. The swamps, often seen as uninhabitable, became a safe haven for those seeking freedom. Could they have been guided by Mami Earth? Hoodoo practitioners are traditional healers, possessing a profound understanding of the land and her language. They know which plants can heal, which waters can cleanse, and which paths lead to safety. This knowledge, often dismissed by Western ideologies as unscientific, exemplifies Gullah Geechee Traditional Ecological Knowledge (TEK), blending science and spiritual insight.
By bringing Mami Earth to the forefront of interpretive experiences, I invite readers to connect with her and, in turn, connect with Gullah Geechee culture and their ancestors. Through my Gullah Geechee Adventures tour at Riverfront Park, I guide participants on a journey that reveals the hidden history and cultural significance of the land.
Participants explore landmarks like the Dead House and the plants that grow on former rice plantations, learning about the Gullah Geechee contributions to agriculture and architecture. They engage in ceremonies such as libations and water offerings to honor the spirits of the land and the ancestors who worked it. By experiencing these practices, visitors gain a deeper understanding of the spiritual and cultural connections that the Gullah Geechee people have with the land.
As descendants of naturalists and agricultural scientists, we were born to be stewards of the land. As we deepen our understanding of our true history, we will realize that we are not only stewards of this land but also her children.
Our mother’s name is Mami Earth: A hidden Gullah Geechee Earth Spirit.
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Akua Page performs a rice offering, connecting with the spirits of her ancestors at Riverfront Park. Photo by Nathalie Marie Visuals.